Excerpts for Charmed Knits : Projects for Fans of Harry Potter


Charmed Knits

Projects for Fans of Harry Potter
By Alison Hansel

John Wiley & Sons

Copyright © 2007 Alison Hansel
All right reserved.

ISBN: 978-0-470-06731-4


Chapter One

Weasley Knits

When the Weasley welcome wagon comes wheeling over to Harry at the entrance to Platform 9 3/4, we know he's in for a wonderful journey. The Weasleys are Harry's introduction to the magical world, and Mrs. Weasley, as an avid knitter, serves as our introduction to the world of Harry Potter knitting. She is an inspiration for knitters, both magical and Muggle. From her holiday jumpers to her own colorful knitwear, she teaches us that while wizards may not need telephones or cars, they can always use a handknit sweater.

These patterns take us on a trip to the Burrow, where we find not only the now-classic Weasley sweater and Molly's outrageous ruffled housecoat, but also her special bag of stitch witchery and the incredible clock she uses to keep track of her brood. And the Burrow wouldn't be complete without the Weasleys' shabby old owl, Errol! These uncommon, funky knits capture the style of the entire Weasley family and show that wizard knitting can be as strange and as marvelous as you can imagine.

The Weasley Sweater 2

Mrs. Weasley's Bag of Stitch Witchery 8

Molly's Amazing Technicolor Housecoat 13

Errol 24

Clock Blanket 29

The Weasley Sweater

Designer - Alison Hansel Pattern Rating - First Year

Weasley sweaters for everyone! Just like the sweaters Mrs. Weasley made for her kids and Harry for Christmas in the first movie, this simple oversized sweater is knit in a tweedy yarn with an initial on the front. The sweater is a basic, drop-shoulder style, with sleeves knit down from the body of the sweater so there's minimal seaming. And because it's knit at such a comfortable gauge and is oversized, this project is great for a beginner charming up a sweater for the first time. The initial can even be worked into the front with duplicate stitch! The soft and rather luxurious tweedy cashmere blend balances the intentional homeliness of the sweater: It may have the look of Weasley clothes, but it feels divine! And don't worry about it being perfect-Molly wouldn't.

Back

With color A, CO 50 (58, 66, 74, 82, 90, 98, 106) sts.

Work in St st, as described in the stitch guide, until piece measures 13 (16, 20, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32)" [33 (40.5, 51, 61, 66, 71, 76, 81.5) cm] from CO edge (uncurl lower edge to measure correctly), ending with a WS row completed.

Shape Shoulders

Next row (RS): BO 15 (17, 20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32) sts, knit to end.

Next row (WS): BO 15 (17, 20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32) sts, purl to end.

Place rem 20 (24, 26, 30, 32, 36, 38, 42) sts on st holder for the neck.

Mark beg of armhole by measuring 6 (7 1/2, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14)" [15 (19, 23, 25.5, 28, 30.5, 33, 35.5) cm] down from each shoulder and tying scraps of yarn through the edge st at each end of row to use as markers.

Front

Work as for back until piece measures 4 1/2 (6 1/2, 9 1/2, 12 1/2, 13 1/2, 15 1/2, 16 1/2, 18 1/2)" [11.5 (16.5, 24, 31.5, 34.5, 39, 42, 47) cm] from CO edge (uncurl lower edge to measure correctly), ending with a WS row completed.

At this point, you need to decide whether to add the H now, using the intarsia method, or continue knitting in color A and add the H later, using duplicate stitch.

Adding H with Duplicate Stitch Only

If you plan to add the initial H later by using duplicate stitch, continue knitting in St st until piece measures 10 1/2 (13, 17 1/2, 20 1/2, 22, 24, 25 1/2, 27 1/2)" [26.5 (33, 44.5, 52, 56, 61, 65, 70) cm] from CO edge (uncurl edge to measure correctly), ending with a WS row completed.

Adding H with Intarsia Method Only

To knit the initial H using the intarsia method, center the H as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K15 (19, 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42) sts in color A, then follow row 1 in the appropriate color chart (see page 3) for the size you're making, joining new ball of yarn for each separate color and twisting the yarns around each other when switching colors to avoid gaps in the work.

Continue following chart over the center 20 (20, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22) charted sts. When chart row 1 is complete, join new ball of color A and knit rem 15 (19, 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42) sts.

When the charted rows are finished, continue working in St st with color A only until piece measures 10 1/2 (13, 17 1/2, 20 1/2, 22, 24, 25 1/2, 27 1/2)" [26.5 (33, 44.5, 52, 56, 61, 65, 70) cm] from CO edge (uncurl edge to measure correctly), ending with a WS row completed.

Shape Neck Opening

Next row (RS): K31 (36, 40, 45, 49, 54, 59, 64), slip last 12 (14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 20, 22) sts worked onto stitch holder for center neck, k19 (22, 26, 29, 33, 36, 39, 42).

Work right shoulder (as worn) sts only:

Row 1 (WS): Purl to last 3 sts before neck opening, p2tog, p1-18 (21, 25, 28, 32, 35, 38, 41) sts rem.

Row 2 (RS): K1, k2tog, knit to end of row-17 (20, 24, 27, 31, 34, 37, 40) sts rem.

Rep last 2 rows 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3) times more-17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 33, 34) sts rem.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Next row (RS): K1, k2tog, knit to end of row-16 (19, 21, 24, 26, 29, 32, 33) sts rem.

Rep these 2 rows 1 (2, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2, 1) times more-15 (17, 20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32) sts rem.

Continue in St st without further shaping until piece measures 13 (16, 20, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32)" [33 (40.5, 51, 61, 66, 71, 76, 81.5) cm] from CO edge (uncurl edge to measure correctly), ending with a RS row completed.

Next row (WS): BO rem 15 (17, 20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32) sts pwise.

Join yarn at armhole edge of left side (as worn) and shape neck and shoulders as for right side, reversing all shapings, as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to last 3 sts before neck opening, ssk, k1-18 (21, 25, 28, 32, 35, 38, 41) sts rem.

Row 2 (WS): P1, p2tog, purl to end of row-17 (20, 24, 27, 31, 34, 37, 40) sts rem.

Rep these 2 rows 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3) times more-17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 33, 34) sts rem.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Next row (WS): P1, p2tog, purl to end of row-16 (19, 21, 24, 26, 29, 32, 33) sts rem.

Rep these 2 rows 1 (2, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2, 1) times more-15 (17, 20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32) sts rem.

Continue in St st without further shaping until piece measures 13 (16, 20, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32)" [33 (40.5, 51, 61, 66, 71, 76, 81.5) cm] from CO edge (uncurl edge to measure correctly), ending with a WS row completed.

Next row (RS): BO rem 15 (17, 20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32) sts.

Mark beg of armhole by measuring 6 (7 1/2, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14)" [15 (19, 23, 25.5, 28, 30.5, 33, 35.5) cm] down from each shoulder and tying a spare scrap of yarn around edge st.

Sew shoulder seams together using backstitch (see page 159) or grafting (see page 160).

Sleeves

With RS facing, pick up 48 (60, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts between front and back armhole markers on one side of body.

Beg with WS row, work in St st for 5 (9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 9, 3) rows.

Sleeve Decreases

Dec row (RS): K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1-46 (58, 70, 78, 86, 94, 102, 110) sts.

Rep dec row every 4th row 10 (14, 18, 20, 24, 26, 28, 32) times more-26 (30, 34, 38, 38, 42, 46, 46) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 9 (12, 15, 17, 18 1/2, 19 1/2 20 1/2, 22)" [23 (30.5, 38, 43, 47, 49.5, 52, 56) cm], ending with a WS row completed.

Cuff

Row 1 (RS): K2, p2; rep from to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2 (WS): P2, k2, p2; rep from to end of row.

Rep rows 1 and 2 until cuff measures 2 (2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 3, 3)" [5 (5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5) cm]. BO in patt.

Work second sleeve same as first.

Neck

Return back neck sts to needle, join new yarn at right edge (as worn) of back neck, and, with 16" [40 cm] circular needle, knit across 20 (24, 26, 30, 32, 36, 38, 42) sts from back neck. Pick up and k10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts along left side of neck. Place 12 (14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 20, 22) front neck sts on needle and knit across sts. Pick up and k10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts along right side of neck-52 (62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 94, 100) sts.

Pm to note beg of rnd and join in a circle, being careful not to twist sts. Knit every rnd for 2 (2, 2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 3, 3)" [5 (5, 5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5) cm]. BO loosely.

Finishing

Block all pieces to size, according to yarn manufacturer's instructions.

If you did not use the intarsia method, add initial with duplicate st (see page 157).

Sew side and sleeve seams using mattress st (see page 160).

Weave in all rem ends.

Materials

* Jo Sharp Silkroad Aran Tweed (85% wool, 10% silk, 5% cash-mere, 104 yd. [95 m] per 50 g ball), #129 Enamel (color A), 4 (6, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 20) balls, and #114 Vermouth (color B), 1 ball

* Or similar yarn that knits to specified gauge: heavy-worsted-weight wool or wool-blend yarn, about 400 (595, 855, 1,090, 1,310, 1,510, 1,760, 2,010) yd. [366 (544, 782, 997, 1,198, 1,381, 1,609, 1,838) m]

* US 8 [5 mm] needles

* US 8 [5 mm] 16" [40 cm] circular needle

* Stitch holder

* Stitch markers

* Tapestry needle

Gauge

16 sts and 24 rows = 4" [10 cm] in St st using size 8 [5 mm] needles

Finished Size

Toddler (Child S, Child M, Child L/Adult S, Adult M, Adult L, Adult XL, Adult XXL)

To fit chest: 20 (24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48)" [51 (61, 71, 81.5, 91.5, 101.5, 112, 122) cm]

Circumference: 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52)" [61 (71, 81.5, 91.5, 101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm]

Length: 13 (16, 20, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32)" [33 (40.5, 51, 61, 66, 71, 76, 81.5) cm]

Sample shown: Size Child M

Note: This sweater includes a lot of ease because it looks so great oversized!

Stitch Guide for This Project

Stockinette Stitch (St st) Worked in Rows

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Rep rows 1 and 2.

Double Rib (2x2) Worked in Rows over a Multiple of 4 Sts Plus 2

Row 1: K2, p2; rep from to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2: P2, k2, p2; rep from to end of row.

Rep rows 1 and 2.

Stockinette Stitch (St st) Worked in Rounds

Knit all sts.

Mrs. Weasley's Bag Of Stitch Witchery

Designer-Alison Stewart-Guinee Pattern Rating-Ordinary Wizarding Level

Here's the bag that Molly reaches for as she heads out of the Burrow. It is big enough to hold everything a witch on the go might need: wand, clock (for keeping track of loved ones), and, of course, knitting. Although the pattern looks complicated, a little stitch witchery makes this piece a joy to knit. The color-work sections are knit as four separate panels in slipstitch patterns. This means only one strand of yarn is in use at any given time. The panels are joined together with a variation of a three-needle bind-off, and from there, stitches are picked up and knitted in the round to form the base and the top edge of the bag. Voila ... no seams-it's like magic!

Instructions

Center Front and Back Panels

Note: Make two panels the same-one for the back and one for the front.

CO 45 sts with color C. Purl 1 row. Then work as follows:

Row 1 (RS): With color D, k5, sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, sl 1 wyib, k5; rep from to end of row.

Row 2: With color D, k1, p3, k1, sl 1 wyif, sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, k1, p3, k1; rep from to end of row.

Row 3: With color A, k1, sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, sl 1 wyib, k5; rep from to end of row, ending last rep with k1 instead of k5.

Row 4: With color A, k1, sl 1 wyif, sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, k1, p3, k1; rep from to last 4 sts, sl 1 wyif, sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, k1.

Rows 5 and 6: With color C, rep rows 1 and 2.

Rows 7 and 8: With color D, rep rows 3 and 4.

Rows 9 and 10: With color A, rep rows 1 and 2.

Rows 11 and 12: With color C, rep rows 3 and 4.

Rep these 12 rows 9 times more. Do not BO sts; instead, cut yarn, leaving an 8" [20.5cm] tail, and transfer work to a holder.

Note: The sts on the holders will form the foundation round of the facing at the top edge of the bag.

Side Panels

Note: Make two side panels the same.

CO 65 sts with color A. Then work as follows:

Row 1 (RS): With color C, k2, [k1, yo, k1] in the next st, k3; rep from to end of row, ending last rep with k2 instead of k3-97 sts.

Row 2: With color A, p2, sl 3 wyif, p3; rep from to end of row, ending last rep with p2 instead of p3.

Row 3: With color A, k1, k2tog, sl 1 wyib, ssk, k1; rep from to end of row-65 sts.

Row 4: With color C, p4, sl 1 wyif, p3; rep from to last st, p1.

Row 5: With color C, k4, [k1, yo, k1] in the next st, k3; rep from to last st, k1-95 sts.

Row 6: With color A, p4, sl 3 wyif, p3; rep from to last st, p1.

Row 7: With color A, k3, k2tog, sl 1 wyib, ssk, k1; rep from to last 2 sts, k2-65 sts.

Row 8: With color C, p2, sl 1 wyif, p3; rep from to end of row, ending last rep with p2 instead of p3.

Rep rows 1-8 until the length of this panel matches that of the center panels. Do not BO sts. Cut yarn, leaving an 8" [20.5 cm] tail, and place sts on a holder.

Note: The sts on the holders will form the foundation round of the facing at the top edge of the bag.

Joining the Panels

Note: When joining the panels together, you pick up sts along two edges, using a crocheted three-needle bind-off that also forms a picot edging. You pick up sts with the RS facing and with the sts on the holders at the same end.

With RS of one of the center panels facing, use circ needle and color B to pick up and k52 sts between CO edge and top edge, ignoring the held sts. Put aside. With the RS of one of the side panel pieces facing, use second circ needle and color B to pick up and k52 sts between top edge and CO edge.

Hold the needles with the picked-up sts on them parallel, tips together, with the WS of the panels facing each other and both sets of held, top-edge sts at the same end. Insert the crochet hook through the first st on each needle as if working a three-needle bind-off (see page 161). Still using color B, wrap the yarn around the tip of the crochet hook from back to front and draw the loop on the hook through both sts, pulling the 2 sts off both knitting needles. Chain 3 sts by wrapping yarn around the crochet hook and pulling a loop through the st on the hook three times.

Materials

* Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yd. [201 m] per 100 g skein), #8886 Eggplant (color A), 2 skeins, and #8914 Spring Green (color B), 1 skein; Cascade 220 Quatro (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yd. [201 m] per 100 g skein), #9433 Raspberry (color C), 2 skeins, and #9436 Coral (color D), 1 skein

* Or similar yarn that knits to specified gauge: worsted-weight wool or wool-blend yarn, about 305 yd. [279 m] of color A, 100 yd. [92 m] of color B, 340 yd. [311 m] of color C, and 115 yd. [105 m] of color D

* US 5 [3.75 mm] 24" [60 cm] circular needle

* US 5 [3.75 mm] 16" [40 cm] circular needle

* US F [3.75 mm] crochet hook

* Stitch markers

* Stitch holders

* Tapestry needle

* 1 set purse handles

* 1 skein DMC embroidery floss to match side panels

* Sewing needle and thread

* 1 yd. [1 m] lining fabric and heavy-weight interfacing (optional)

Gauge

21 sts and 24 rows = 4" [10 cm] in slip st pattern using size 5 [3.75 mm] needles

Finished Size

Height: 11" [28 cm]

Width: 18 1/2" [45.5 cm]

Base: 6" x 17" [15 cm x 43 cm]

Stitch Guide for This Project

Garter Stitch Worked in Rounds

Rnd 1: Knit.

Rnd 2: Purl

Rep rnds 1 and 2.

Note: This pattern uses some crochet techniques. For instructions on how to accomplish the basic crochet stitches, please see the appendix "Special Knitting Techniques."

(Continues...)



Excerpted from Charmed Knits by Alison Hansel Copyright © 2007 by Alison Hansel . Excerpted by permission.
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